Imagine a spotlight trained on a woman at the center of a dark stage. Music starts — something melodic and gentle — and the performer sways in her diaphanous gown. After this dreamy introduction, burlesque horns kick in, and, in a move you’ve seen a hundred times, the woman rips away her evening dress to reveal a strapless sequinned get-up. That’sParfum d'EmpireImmortelle Corse in a nutshell.
Maybe comparing the fragrance to a Broadway number is going too far, since it’s more sun-kissed peasant1than Liza Minelli, but you get the idea. Getting to know Immortelle Corse is to take a ride. Marc Antoine Corticchiato is the founder of Parfum d’Empire and the nose behind Immortelle Corse. Its notes include saffron, apricot, lemon, immortelle and oak moss.
Fresh on skin, Immortelle Corse is all sueded apricot, gentle and smooth. At this point, I’d call it a leather perfume. It’s tougher than哔叽Lutens达因的金发, for instance, but still mousse-like in texture with a close sillage. Unlike many fragrances whose phase one vanishes in minutes, Immortelle Corse hangs on to this persona for a solid hour.
Then, once you’ve settled into apricot skin and suede gloves, you look up from your desk and realize someone else has entered the room: immortelle. And has it ever. Immortelle Corse never gets bossy or loud, but it steps forward with both feet and firmly asserts its signature herbal blend of brandy, orange marmalade, artemisia and body odor.
Not everyone’s a fan of immortelle. If you don’t like it at all — if, say,Etat Libre d’Orange The Afternoon of a Faunis too much for you andSerge Lutens Participe Passéraises nausea — you’ll want to give Immortelle Corse a pass. But, if immortelle intrigues you at all, and if you appreciate a classically structured fragrance, you need to sample this one.
Once Immortelle Corse’s song fades, the immortelle candies and a woody-mossy base cradles it, reminding me of boulders in an August field with an open jar of spicy apricot jam nearby. The fragrance has terrific lasting power. On my skin, half a sample vial applied before breakfast lasts until my evening bath. At last, the spotlight on Immortelle Corse yellows, then clicks off, leaving only muted warmth.
Parfum d’Empire Immortelle Corse Extrait is $175 for 50 ml. For information on where to buy it, seeParfum d’Empire under Perfume Houses.
Note: top image isThe marriage of sun and gold. Le mariage du soleil et de l’or[cropped] bySandrine Rouja at flickr;some rights reserved.
1. “Peasant” is a silly term in this day and age, I know, but I’m in the middle of reading a 1917 melodrama set in Transylvania —Castle to LetbyMrs. Baillie Reynolds— and I have peasant boys on the brain.
I tested this last summer and it was wonderful. The price annoys me though, so I won’t buy it. I already have a big bottle of Atélier Cologne Blanche Immortelle anyway, that will have to do.
If it helps, it’s Extrait! But, if you have a good substitute, there’s no reason to lay out the cash.
Well, they don’t smell exactly the same, but I can get my immortelle fix. I know PdE calls it an extrait but it really doesn’t perform on me any different than an edp.
I’ve been getting my immortelle fix these days with the tiniest spritz of Participe Passé.
I have hard time with immortelle, just as you mentions. Way too often it smells on me like curry, or, what’s worse, like burnt plastic.
But I love Parfum d’Empire so I’m planning to give it a try when the chance arises.
I’m a fan of Parfum d’Empire, too, but, as you say, immortelle is a particular taste.
Oh, curry, that’s what has always bothered me about “Afternoon of a Faun”. Good to know that it’s probably the immortelle. But I don’t get that at all with “Ganymede”, which turns out a bit like spicy hay. So I guess immortelle can be tricky. I’ll have to check out more perfumes containing it. Might as well start with this one.
I think you’re right: immortelle can be tricky! Have fun on your explorations.
我想要to like this, even just to appreciate it as the classically structured fragrance that Angela mentions – whether I bought a bottle or not. I don’t always like immortelle, but sometimes…
This, however, was a big no. I got the leather. And I got the immortelle and maybe a bit of that burned plastic Lucasai mentions. And it went on and on that way with no saffron and no apricot jam and nothing soft and mossy. This one is not for me.
With so many fragrances out there, I guess it’s always good to rule one out!
What a wonderful review to end the year with, Angela
I can’t believe we are ending a decade…where did time go?
Anyway
It sounds like a wonderful fragrance and I bet it would be a beautiful candle as well
Happy New Years xx
Thank you for the friendly New Year wishes, and the same to you! I know what you mean about the passing of a decade. How did that happen?
This has my name written all over it. I love immortelle, and I love Parfum d’Empire. I will try it, at some point. Thanks for the review and best wishes for 2020!
I’d love to know what you think of it, and Happy New Year to you!
Thanks for reviewing this, Angela. I’m currently wearing PdE Tabac Tabou, a favorite cold weather perfume. As an extrait it requires just one quick spritz. Your review made me want to hurry up and order a sample of this new one. I’ll try anything from this house but those notes–swoon. Must sniff.
Oh, Tabac Tabou is like putting on a fat cashmere sweater, it’s so cozy!
安琪拉,你让这声音华丽!基于the comments, though, it definitely sounds like something you should try before buying. Thanks for the fun review
I definitely recommend sampling first! Immortelle is such a love-it-or-hate-it note. Happy New Year!
I am sure this is a good fragrance but I think I have enough oud perfumes in my collection. Sorry I have not participated on this blog very much this year and I hope to rectify that in 2020.
Today I am wear Papillon Bengal Rouge and I smell great (at least to myself)!
Happy New Year to all and may 2020 be a healthy and happy one!
Immortelle Corse isn’t an oud fragrance, but you may have plenty of immortelle fragrances, too.
Happy New Year to you, too!
I don’t think this perfume is for me (I’ll still try it if I come across it somewhere), but I loved your review, Angela.
Happy New Year to you.
Thank you so much, and Hppy New Year to you, too! I’m especially cranky all of the sudden, so your well wishes are well timed!